My entire life could be summed up with this phrase: “Oh My God! I didn’t realize what I was getting myself into!” This is pretty much the definition of an adventure. An adventure requires going beyond your limits and your known experience.

I wanted to try something different when I was choosing a trek in Nepal. There are three major areas that the Kingdom of Nepal offers to wandering foreigners. The most popular is the “Annapurna Trek” in western central Nepal. It’s fantastic by all reports. The second most common is the “Everest Base Camp Trek”. Naturally hiking to Everest has a romantic appeal. The last is a little known and rarely traveled path to Tibet called “Langtang”.

Langtang, a valley winding through small Himalayan villages and leading to an ancient mysterious Monastery of Kudzon Gompa at 12000 feet on the border of Tibet. Hmmmm, sound appealing. I pride myself on ‘going native’ and try to rework the maps to end up in some mischief along the way. Sometimes I’m a little too successful at this.

My girlfriend Kirsten and I purchased a map at a long trekking store in Kathmandu and tried to come up with a plan. It turned out there were some very remote and untraveled paths even in Langtang (an approved trekking area). We would begin at a small village called Dhunche. It appeared that there were a few paths from this small Himalayan rock village that head the back way to the Langtang Khola (river) and follow it to the Tibetan border. Perfect!

DAY ONE: THE HIMALAYAN EXPRESS

We took a rickety local bus from the obscure Kathmandu station (no more then a little shack) at 6AM the next morning and began the slow winding accent toward the mountains. This part of the journey took 12 hours through numerous police check points (to look at our trekking permits) and continue through some dusty small villages.

The bus was a colorful mobile shrine. On the front was a painting the Eyes of Buddha, Mantras (sacred words), and the Hindu Elephant Deity Ganesh. He has many attributes, but protect of traveler and remover of obstacles is his primary power. What could be better for a bus? Inside the driver had photos of various Hindu saints Ramana Maharishi, Sai Baba, plus a few Deities for balance: Laxsmi & Krishna.

We were smashed in with a few too many people who also brought along their chickens, pigs, and many other items from a Kathmandu Valley shopping spree. It was one of the world’s scariest roads: one lane, dirt, with 1000 foot drops two feet from edge of the bus with no guard rail. If you could brave a peak it was enchanting with rice fields terracing every hill. Prayer flags were adorning small stupa temples places magically at the top of each small rounded peak. This was a great initiation into to trust your destiny when you have absolutely no control over it.

It was dusk when we arrived in the Himalayan Village of Dhunche. The bus driver was incredulous about our departure in this small remote stop and that made us a little nervous too. A cold shiver of anticipation rippled up my spine as I left the security of my hard bus seat and entered the rock village to find a guest house for the night.

We were the only travelers in town and the friendly locals directed us to what someday (when they finish building it) might be a guess house. Fortunately, the bare concrete block room in the construction site had a sort of hard futon bed with thin sheets and rock like pillows. We paid a dollar for it and then became painfully aware of the inadequacies of our gear.

You see, we were not planners. We’re spontaneous adventures. We had a couple of summer weight sleeping bags, sneakers and some thick Yak wool sweaters. My jacket was from an army surplus and my backpack from a thrift store. We were not the geared up olympic mountain team that we would see later on the same trail. We were just a couple of people realizing what kind of gear they would like to buy when they get back!

For some bizarre reason, the Himalayan houses do not have a chimney. Instead, to stay warm in the winter they fill the room with smoke and have strategically placed holes in the side wall for the smoke to blow out. Not terribly efficient or cozy. Honestly, I don’t get it. I daydreamed about bring the new technology of chimney here someday. What a revolutionary vision!

Our room didn’t have an hearth or fire smoke, but they had already created the holes in the walls so the frigid night breeze could refresh and invigorate us (practically to death). Needless to say, some vital innovation was needed. We put on all the clothes we had and laid both sleep bags on top of ourselves to try and stay warm. It was mid November and we were at an elevation of 6138 feet.

As night descended in earnest it got dark. This was no ordinary dark. It was darker then dark. It was a dark that needs new words to describe the absent of light. There was no one, no where, with even a candle burning. Mountain people go to bed early and by 8PM there was an omnipresent silence and darkness. That’s when we discovered our flashlight didn’t work.

It was a cheap small travel flashlight and somehow it got turned on in the backpack which drained the battery. I guess you could call this the flip side of spontaneity.

What to do? I thought we could get by without a flashlight, until an hour later when Kirsten announced she had to pee. This improvisational concrete room could not by any means offer a toilet near by. In fact, I don’t believe there was one within the building at all.

We never realize in our cozy daily life the amazing creativity of the mind and it’s mystical capabilities until times of crisis. Kirsten bravely got out of bed and somehow found what I can only guess must have been a paint mixing can and did the necessary. It truly was a small miracle.

Hence forth, we carried a new official trekking plastic water bottle known as the pee bottle. It was definite more essential then the flashlight or all manner of other useless accessory gear. Even today, I doubt if it is offered by REI camping stores, but I can assure you all experienced Himalayan women travelers have created a portable potty.

To be continued in a few days…

I am the original Himalayan Trader. I go to Asia to do adventure travel, meditation, & trading. The Himalayan Traders is from the ‘Small Is Beautiful’ lifestyle philosophy. In Buddhist thought, Right Livelihood is considered essential for the layman’s spiritual path. As a Buddhist layperson, I have tried to embody this ideal through The Himalayan Traders.

To support the intreped spiritual wandering I have created the Himalayan Traders (http://www.himalayantraders.com) Most of our goods come from the Royal Kingdom of Nepal. In ancient times, large parts of Nepal were Tibetan territories, so the cultures are blended quite alot. The mountain people are generally Buddhist while the people of Kathmandu valley are a mix of Buddhist & Hindu.

In 1959, and thereafter many Tibetan refugees came to Nepal to escape the invasion of Tibet by China. The Tibetan refugees have worked hard and created new homes and businesses in Nepal. We buy directly from these Tibetan people and the various other ethnic peoples of Nepal. Most of our suppliers are small family businesses and craftsmen. There are no child laborers and the prices paid for goods provide a comfortable livelihood for these people.

One of the Buddhist beliefs that I adhere to is that we are all evolving together and everything is interconnected. For this reason, it is good to share some of the responsibility for helping society. In an effort to give some support for Buddhist study, we are sending up to 50% of our profits to support Tibetan people and Relief Projects of compassion.

COME SEE US AT http://www.himalayantraders.com

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When planning such a trip, we first shall leave 2 to 3 days in Lhasa, not only for sightseeing there but also for high altitude acclimatization. Most people will not have any problem with the high altitude after some rest. During sightseeing in Lhasa, we should at least include the most beautiful splendor in Tibet – Potala Palace and the Tibetan spiritual center of Jokhang Temple. If the time permits, we usually shall have one day exploration to the Drepung Monastery and Sera Monastery to get a glimpse of how Tibetan monks live or study there. Then we will drive out of Lhasa for other places of the route.

As part of the road to Gyantse is under reconstruction now, our next stop would be Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet. There is the Tashilumpo Monastery which stores the biggest copper Buddha statue in the world. The old town of Shigatse is also very interesting just like that of Lhasa. You may find some special souvenirs in the local market as well.

The next day we can either drive to Gyantse for a visit (approx. 180km back and forth) or skip Gyantse and drive forward to Ronbuk Monastery. The Shigatse-Ronbuk is a long trip of around 350km with the most difficult part in the last 100km. Ronbuk Monastery is the highest monastery in the world and only 8km from the Mt. Everest Base Camp. Upon arrival, we would be able to enjoy the glorious evening scenery of Mount Everest in distance. Overnight we usually stay at the Ronbuk Monastery guesthouse.

And in the next early morning, we will walk or take a carriage forward to the Mount Everest Base Camp.As we know there is very limited time to view the true face of Mount Everest in a year, many people feel it is already an unforgettable experience when just being with this highest mountain in the world..After enjoy the morning scenery of Mount Everest, we will get back to Tingri or forward to Shigatse depending on our last stop to Zhangmu or Lhasa. .

This Mount Everest Base Camp tour requires at least 7-8 days including that for high altitude acclimatization in Lhasa. The prime time for it shall be from May to October though it is available throughout the year except some snowing days in February (and raining days in August for the Friendship Highway to Kathmandu). Some tourists told us that they feel they changed to another person after the trip. I guess this might be because they experienced something really very unique in life.

Sherry Jia, experienced Tibet travel advisor from http://www.toursoftibet.com, a local travel agency based in Lhasa with an office in Chengdu, Capital of Sichuan Provice in China handling all on-line inquiries regarding a private tour to Tibet and China. For the detailed day-to-day itinerary of this Mount Everest Base Camp trip in Tibet, please visit our http://www.toursoftibet.com/docc/TP.html.

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For a more orthodox Tibetan feel, the eastern end of Lhasa is ideal. Visit the Jokhang and the Barkhor to see traditional dress, locals engaged on a kora, and spinning prayer wheels. The western end of the city has more Chinese influence and is quite modern. The diversity between the eastern and western sections of the city can be surprising to foreign visitors. The Jokhang Temple is a must-see for any visit. Built in the 7th century AD, it was constructed to house statues of Buddha. Over the centuries, the temple has been enlarged and houses many historical statues of past kings and their brides.

Spanning four floors and facing west with a gilded rooftop, the temple is located on Barkhor Square. This is right in the center of the old section of Lhasa. Sometimes monks congregate on the lower level and on the roof to pray and debate. The famous Potala Palace is also worth a visit. It is thought to have originally been a fortress but has been rebuilt many times by several Dalai Lamas over the years. Towering no less than 14 stories with more than 1,000 rooms, past Dala Lamas once lived in the palace. Their remains are housed in golden tombs.

There are guided tours inside the palace and plenty of time to enjoy the grounds. But beware, it will take around an exhausting 45 minutes to climb the hundreds of stairs! That said, getting around Lhasa is quite easy on foot. However, if you don’t want to walk everywhere, there is the cycle rickshaw. Remember to barter for your fare. You can also take a taxi, minibuses, and buses. For buses, you can buy tickets in advance or simply when you board the bus.

All visitors must have a current visa and Tibet Travel Permit in order to visit Lhasa. The application can be quite treacherous. It is easier if you work with a Chinese travel agent to facilitate the application process. In remote areas of Tibet, you won’t find any money exchange services. This means that if you plan any treks out of Lhasa you better prepare yourself before you leave the city.

Shane Marden is an Australian photographer and author of the coffee table book Child of Tibet: A lost innocence. He loves telling stories and is passionate about freedom. Shane also runs a web site on Tibet.

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The trip and arrival in Xining went exactly as planned and we were met by Nancy, an exceptional guide. When she discussed what there would be to do for the afternoon we would have after lunch, she was pleased that we knew that there was an extensive street market in town that was certainly well worth our time and visit.

The timing of a large lunch and then the need to eat again early to be at the station on time made for an excessive amount of food and the restaurant manager just did not understand that we only want a bowl of soup and some more of their excellent watermelon slices.

Nancy took us to the station and to the “soft” VIP lounge. That was a very thoughtful addition to the wait for the train to arrive on time.

My wife and I had very mixed emotions concerning the new Tibet train. First the scenery and the event of riding this new China train far exceeded our expectations. We would recommend it to any and all who enjoy seeing new terrain and riding trains to any where. On the other hand the service and facilities on the train were a marked disappointment. I guess we pegged our level of service and facilities on the train we took on our first trip from Guangzhou to Hong Kong. Checked baggage handling. Smiling helpful car attendants in white gloves and emasculate pink uniforms who ushered us to our seats and provided drinks and service along the trip. With the train to Lhasa being new and even more up to date, we feel you can understand our expectations.

First, we were astounded that there was no baggage checking available. Even though Nancy and our driver stayed with us to take our luggage down into the subway tunnel to the third set of tracks away from the station, it was a difficult chore. If the guide and driver would have even have even had a group of 5 or 6 clients, this baggage hauling would have been extremely difficult. Then to have the luggage in the compartment where our two regular cases took up half the floor space. We did utilize the vacant upper bunks for our carry-on cases. The space under the lower seat/bed, was so narrow only a very small case would have gone under the bed.

The next disappointment concerned the bedding. It was obvious that the compartment had been occupied by at least four persons. The lower beds that were to be ours were “spread up” to look fresh, but the bedding was soiled and without question used and not changed. There were dirty shoe marks on the outer side of the bedding and food debris in the bedding. We cleaned up as best we could and carried out the old food waste that was left in the compartment.

We use China Connection Tours as our China Tour Operator and thanks to them as they guaranteed the Tibet train tickets for us.

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With an unlimited options to embark on Lhakpa Ri mountaineering expedition in the off the beaten track style, you kickstart your expertly guided journey with a leisurely stay in Lhasa. Indulging and savoring the sheer pleasure of sightseeing legendary Potala Palace, Sera Monastery, Norbulingka, Jokhang Temple, colorful Barkhor Markets, Drepung Monastery etc, you experience the best of Lhasa. Highly professional, trained and experienced Tibetan guide companies you during the entire trip. The journey continues further with an adventure-packed leisurely 4WD drive via Lhasa- Shigatse- Xegar-Rongbuk along Friendship. En route, you encounter monasteries, several 5000+ meter high mountain passes, nomadic settlements, pristine hamlets and nomadic herdsmen. Throughout this tour, unbeatable sights of mountain giants like mighty Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Shisapangma and many other numerous peaks surround you. Exploring the topographical features of the Tibet side of Mount Everest along Rongbuk Glacier ascending towards Base camp, Camp I, Camp II and finally camp III at 6340 meter, you attain maximum physical fitness and acclimatization for climbing Lhakpa Ri peak.

Explore Himalaya fosters truly rewarding Tibet mountaineering expeditions which since more than decade bear a successful unbeatable track record of endorsing not just complete travel satisfaction and cherishing travel experience but also a deeper understanding and connection with Tibet mountain range, its culture and people. Being mountaineer-friendly for its straightforward glaciated ascents, Lhakpa Ri mountain climbing requires a relatively high level of commitment and conditioning. When it comes to your safety, interest, desire and pleasure, we remain forever at your service.

We organize expeditions to Lhakpa Ri on departures dates and on private basis as well. We offer the best service for a very reassonable price. Please contact us to get more information about our services in Tibet.

Julien Van Loye

Explore Himalaya Travel & Adventure

julien@explorehimalaya.com

Bhagwahal Bahal, Thamel

Kathmandu, Nepal

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Is it difficult to get there? No actually it is not. Most people think the best way to go about it, is to fly into Lhasa, and go from there. I found a better way was to go overland from Nepal, Kathmandu over the friendship bridge and through places such as Nyalam, Tingri, Skekar, Lhatse or Quxar, Shigatse, Gyantse, Nagartse to Lhasa, over a very small but breathtaking region of the Chinese labeled “Autonomous Region” of Tibet. Of course things change all the time, so make sure you fully update yourself on travel to Tibet, permits, travel ability and general stability of the country politically is never something one should presume. A good travel company should be up to date with the goings on, and also offer some alternative if things change on your planned journey.

Again on travel companies in general, I highly recommend organizing this through one that promises Tibetan guides, and secondly uses locally ran accommodations where ever and whenever possible. Although difficult, there are ways to support Tibetan people along your travels, if you know who to travel with. I know D’Tours Original offer such touring standards.

The best time to travel to Tibet is between September to early November, just keep in mind it starts to get very cold the later you go, and accommodations are not always the warmest. You will need to obtain certain permits to travel, and ATP (Alien Travel Permit) and of course a visa etc. Your travel company can help you obtain all of these things. You do not need a Chinese Visa stamped in your passport before coming to Nepal to travel there either, as long as you a returning the way you came, you should not need this at all. Of course rules continually change, so keep yourself informed via internet, forums and tour company advice.

Why is now the best time to go? Spiritually Tibet stands alone, a stony silence hangs over the air like a clear glass case, although it is heart breaking to see the devastation not only in the once lush landscapes, now raped of anything green and left barren and windswept, and to see the deep set lines on beautiful faces withstanding life saturated with iniquitous treatment of the basic human right to live and breathe one’s own air. However, It a fast growing foreign population, so fast in fact that soon perhaps traces of Tibet may be consumed forever, so better now than later, and it is worth it, if not for the historical splendour that lines each city with monasteries, stupas and Tibetan artistry. The Tibetan people still somehow find their smile, and warmth behind their eyes, offering you the traveller a rich and rewarding insight into strength and courage and beyond all else, a welcome into a country that is and always will be spiritually theirs and theirs alone.

So go now, because it is a place one should not put aside to go later.

For more information about Tibet Tours, please visit http://www.dtoursoriginal.com

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The first and most important thing is to take it easy. And then pay attention to the followings:

1. Avoid catching a cold before entering into Tibet;

2. Try to have a good sleep at the night before arriving in Tibet;

3. Don’t conduct many activities on the first day of arrival;

4. Walk slowly and drink extra fluids;

5. Light and high carbohydrate meals are recommended for more energy and don’t drink alcohol or smoke;

6. Climb up to high altitude slowly;

7. Avoid sedatives;

8. Prepare some medicines as per doctors’ suggestions.

Usually we will prepare the oxygen canisters/bags for your whole journey. Most of our tour guides and drivers are local Tibetans who know the local condition very well and with some of them having been well trained for the emergency.

For people who have diseases like tuberculosis, pneumonia, serious tracheitis, bronchitis and serious heart problems or catch a serious cold, it is usually not suggested to come to Tibet. If you are not sure about your health condition, you can consult your doctor before traveling.

And if there are kids’ travelling with you, you shall also first consult the doctor for some advices. My experience shows that some children are even better in high altitude acclimatization than adults…

Sherry Jia, experienced Tibet travel advisor from http://www.toursoftibet.com, a local travel agency based in Lhasa with an office in Chengdu China handling all on-line inquiries regarding a tour to Tibet and China. Please visit us for day-to-day itineraries of some popular tours in Tibet including that to Mt. Everest Base Camp, Mt. Kailash, etc. and also many trekking/hikking tours in Tibet.

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Like traveling in other parts of China, if you don’t speak any Chinese or have little knowledge of this country, please bring a phrase book with you. Though the attendants had some crash courses of English, it is surely not enough to cover different situations on board.

After going up more than 4500 meters above sea level, some weird things may happen at the altitude like ink-pens leak, vacuum-sealed food packages explode, some laptops and digital music players fail. So please get ready for what is going to happen on the way!

The trains may stop at some high-altitude stations with a fantastic view. Please keep warm if getting off the train. Catching a cold on the plateau will make you feel worse, even lead to a disastrous consequence. Please don’t run and get excited at the height, otherwise, you may feel very uncomfortable afterwards due to lack of oxygen.

Please take light, high-carbohydrate meals for more energy, and avoid alcohol as it may increase the risk of dehydration.

You can use sunscreen, sunglasses lip creams to protect your eyes and skin, for Tibet’s high altitude and the atmosphere allow the sun’s solar radiation to strike the earth with more intensity.

Please check with your doctor before coming to take the trip. Those who have heart problems, high or low blood pressure are not recommended to take the train ride and visit Tibet. For regular people, doctors may or may not suggest that you bring some high altitude medication based on your physical condition.

For more information, please visit the website at http://www.tibettraintravel.com/

Ricky Yang
A China travel specialist who has been in tourism industry for 15 years, He is now the managing director of the tour websites: http://www.easytourchina.com and tibettraintravel.com.

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The tourist must then apply for the Tibet Travel Permit at the same Embassy or Consulate. When applying for this permit, foreign tourists are asked to submit basic identification information (including name, nationality, age, sex, occupation, and passport number), route to and point of entrance, approximate travel time, travel intentions, telephone contact information and other materials, to designated offices of the TTB. This can be done directly or through travel agencies. A copy of the Chinese visa and first page of the tourist’s passport need to be faxed or emailed to the TTB (Tibet Travel Bureau). Tourists should receive confirmation for travel to Tibet within two to four business days.

The Tibet Travel Permit is usually issued instantly upon receipt of copies of the tourist’s passport and visa. Checking and approval of the letter however requires three working days. To avoid any possible conflict with airline tickets, hotel reservations, scheduled guides and vehicles, tourists are suggested to begin the application procedures as early as possible. This is a necessary step for anyone planning on visiting Tibet. When you fly from any city to Lhasa you will need to show this permit when you check in at the airport. Most travel agencies will ask to see this permit before selling you the flight ticket.

Amine Rahal
Absolute China Tours Ltd.

More information about traveling to Tibet in our Tibet Travel page.

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There are two pages for the permit. The first page is the approval letter from the Tibet Tourism Bureau with an unique number and anti-false label at the top right and the second is the group name list. Both pages shall be stamped by the Bureau.

When applying for the permit, it is required to provide the day-to-day tour itinerary, travel dates, hotel reservations, tourists’ personal data including. name, nationality, age, gender, passport number and occupation as well as a clear copy of passports and China Visas. Please note journalists, reporters, government officials, diplomats and religious officials shall travel Tibet under arrangements of the local foreign affairs office.

This permit is only for entering Tibet and travelling in Lhasa region. When check-in-out at the train stations and airports, you shall show it to relevant staff, and upon arrival in Lhasa, give it to your tour guide who will help you cater for any inspections during travelling.

If you travel other to places outside Lhasa, an Aliens’ Travel Permit and some other permits such as military permit will be required which your travel agency shall handle for you accordingly.

Sherry Jia, Tibet travel advisor from http://www.toursoftibet.com, a local travel agency providing various tours to Tibet. Visit us for more information on Tibet travel permit and China Visa.

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