The symbol of Tibet is the majestic Potala Palace perched on top of Marpo Ri Hill in the center of the city of Lhasa. It is the must-go of most visitors to Tibet. The Potala Palace is the religious and political center of Tibet and the former residence of the Dalai Lama. It is the most sacred place in Tibetans’ heart. Although place like Lhasa is definitely somewhere that tourists can not miss, this article is going tell you something about Tibet that is absolutely magnificent but out of the spot lights.

Among the snowy mountains and deep gorges between Tibet and Yunnan, there are some mysterious footpaths winding through the mountainsides, some are even carved into cliff face crossing one of the most dangerous terrain and uninhabitable area in the world. These footpaths have been called the ancient Tea-Horse Road. Hardly to be called a road it starts from Sichuan and Yunnan provinces in Southwest China, runs along the eastern foothills and deep canyons of several major rivers, than heads into Tibet spanning the two highest plateaus of China (i.e. the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and the Yunnan-Guizhou plateau), and finally reaches India, south of the Himalayas. But why have these ancient footpaths been called the Tea-Horse Road, who discovered this ancient route into Tibet, and what is the role it plays in the history?

It can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907). Tibetan people liked drinking Pu-erh tea (i.e. post-fermented tea compressed in thick rectangular blocks, flat squares, discuses or other shapes) because they ate high calories food such as butter, Tsamba, beef, and lamb but consumed very little vegetables. Pu-erh tea not only helped them to digest the heavy food but also offered their Vitamin need. Tibetans did not drink the Pu-erh directly but mixed the tea with the yak butter creating a salty and rich tea which is still common today. However the environmental situation of Tibet did not allow for the growing of the tea. Luckily, the neighboring Yunnan was an ideal land for growing tea, and they made Pu-erh tea in great quality. Those who could manage to transfer the tea from Yunnan into Tibet were going to make good money. On the other hand, Chinese army needed strong warhorses desperately, comparatively Tibetans had a strong mounted army and they also had access to Middle Asia, where possessed the best military horses in the world.

However, it was almost a mission impossible to exchange goods between Tibet and Yunnan, because any possible land connection between the two regions was almost cut off by the harsh terrain. The natural border between Tibetan plateau and Yunnan is formed of endless snowy mountains and deep gorges with steep cliffs which is tough for any land animals to cross the area. Finally the irresistible temptation of making huge profit had given the merchants enough courage to make their way through cleverly however dangerously.

If the mountains could not be climbed they went around them on the mountainsides. By following the rivers they could take advantage of the narrow river banks under the cliffs. In continuous and collective efforts in many years, the trading link was established. Through this route, Yunnan merchants traded Pu-erh tea for strong military horses from Tibetan, and resold these horses to the rest of China. On the other hand, Tibetan merchants also made good money by selling the tea to India and middle Asia. This is why this trading route has been called the Tea-Horse Road.

Therefore, the ancient Tea-Horse Road plays a similar role as the Silk Road, and is a significant part of the international trade in the history. Besides a road of wealth, it was also a road of cultural exchange that created a cultural bond between Tibetans and Chinese in the history, and facilitated the spread of Buddhism in China. Even today, when people are trekking on this ancient route into Tibet, they can still sense the spirit, the courage, and the wisdom devoted to this road, and marvel at this great legacy of our ancient ancestors.

This article is one of China Odyssey Tours’ serial introductions about adventurous China. Other topics include the “Simatai Great Wall, a real adventure tour”, “Home of Giant Pandas – Chengdu”, “Tiger Leaping Gorge and ancient town Lijiang”, “The legend of Dragon Back and the fairy tale of Third Sister Liu”. You would find the adventurous routes cover the above topics though China Odyssey Tours, or custom design a dream route exclusive to you.

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In 1992, Brandon and his wife Cheryl travelled 40 days from early October to the end of November in 1992 over 1000 kilometers travelling along the ancient pilgrimage route across Tibet. Evidently, they were one of the first Western couples to trek this ancient route alongside, by the way, a horse they named Sadhu.

Good day Brandon and thank you for accepting our invitation to be interviewed.

Norm: Brandon, could you tell our readers something about yourself and your wife Cheryl, and why did you want to trek across Tibet and did you ever had any fears prior to your journey?

Brandon: Tashi delek, Norm! We had been travelling for years as budget travelers, traveling light, with only a backpack to sustain us for months on end. In the process, we’d made our requisite trip around the world for a year and had seen many of civilization’s greatest achievements. We’d also traveled overland across Africa for nine months (which is the subject of my book to be released in 2005, Dead Men Don’t Leave Tips.) So, we were ready for a more intense experience something more in line with that of the great explorers.

Our decision to attempt to trek from Lhasa, Tibet to Kathmandu, Nepal sprung from the notion that this was the ultimate adventure. Everyone grew up with the legend of a Shangri-La, that fanciful place from James Hilton’s Lost Horizon. The more that I read about Tibet, the more I was fascinated by its remoteness, inaccessibility, and its exotic reputation.

Then, as luck would have it, we were told several times that this trek had never been done by a Western couple and that it was “impossible!” That ultimately sealed our fate.

As far as “fears” prior to the journey, first, I had real concerns that we wouldn’t be allowed into Tibet as independent travelers, since the border had been closed to them for many years. A Chinese organized group tour was simply out of the question for us.

Then, although we were assured the trip was “impossible” due to lack of food, water, accommodations, and maps, personally I was more worried about the weather. Knowing the severity of weather conditions in the Himalayas, would we be able to reach the lower altitudes of Nepal in time before the roads closed, stranding us until May’s thaw?

Finally, I must admit that I was also wary about the reaction of Uzi-toting Chinese soldiers along the way, as well as the various cadres of bureaucrats unused to dealing with outsiders. Guess I’d prefer to deal with nature any day, rather than the vagaries of human nature.

Norm: What were the most harrowing experiences you encountered during your journey?

Brandon: It’s a toss-up. This entire journey was chock-full of uncertainty. The spectre of running out of food and water was a daily concern. Where would we stay? Would our bodies be able to physically able to make 1000 kilometers at 12-17,000 foot altitude for 40 days?

But I’d have to say that the most singularly harrowing experience we had was being shot at by Chinese soldiers as we overlooked Mt. Everest from a hilltop in Tingri. What do you do?

As second runner-up, I’d nominate that morning where we awoke to a blinding blizzard and realized that we still needed to press on.

Norm: What impressed you most of all about the trip?

Brandon: First, we were impressed by the unexpected generosity of the Tibetan people. Originally we packed a tent, stove and fuel for the trek, expecting to be totally on our own along the way. However, after our first night spent camping in a potato patch, we were taken-in by local villagers who shared their meager possessions, including yak butter tea and a warm spot around their fire. We really grew to look forward to these human exchanges, even though we had to rely on clumsy sign-language and a limited phrasebook to communicate. Fortunately, we started to run into former monks who’d received training in Nepal and still spoke limited English.

Through talking to them, we became better informed about the hardships of living in Tibet today under the Chinese Communist occupation. We learned that Tibetans are prevented from making pilgrimages along the same route that we trekked into Nepal, as they’ve done for centuries.

So the trip for us became more than just an “adventure” trek. It became a political statement. If we could make their trek as pilgrims, we’d show to the Chinese that it could be done, even by Westerners, without disrupting the geo-political balance of power.

In fact, on the trek’s conclusion, we presented a set of prayer flags to the king of Nepal’s personal representative at the palace with the hope that the king would fly them as a symbol of solidarity with the Tibetan Buddhists.

Finally, we were impressed by the unwavering faith shown by many of the Tibetans. At night, in the dark stillness of their homes, we shared photos of His Holiness the Dalai Lama with them that we had secreted into the country. Gingerly holding the photo, they touched it to the foreheads of the members of their family, blessing them. Then drawing back several layers of curtains, they reverently placed it in their private altar beside other statues and holy instruments.

After over 40 years of oppression and death, could we still be so patient or retain so much faith?

Norm: If you had to do it all over again in 2004, would you still jump at the opportunity? As a follow up, would you advise anyone else to follow in your footsteps and what are the possible dangers they may encounter today?

Brandon: Frankly, no. This trek is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. From what I’ve read since then, and I receive Tibetan news every day now, the country has vastly changed especially Lhasa. As inundated as it was then with Chinese settlers, solders and foreign culture, it is even more so today. Now, they’re in the process of completing a railroad line into Lhasa from western China, so the transformation will be accelerating, the assimilation complete. The world saw the same effect in Inner Mongolia and Manchuria with the arrival of the railroad.

With that said, I’d love to return, perhaps to the more remote Mustang region this time, far removed from the propaganda tours. Of course this is assuming I would be granted a visa. Writing this book has certainly made that possibility more remote&

However, I would advise readers to explore any part of the world that interests them by walking. There is nothing so satisfying as discovering a culture one-step-at-a-time. This is a traditional way of exploration which creates total immersion in a culture: its food, history, art, architecture, people, language and nature. I like to think of it as a walking meditation, too. You place your body on “auto-pilot” and travel outside, while traveling within.

If readers are interested in this rewarding mode of travel, they can check out several options on my WEB SITE where I have free “how-to” articles about walking some of Europe’s most spectacular pilgrimage routes, along with web links for more information.

Walking across Tibet was the beginning of this, my latest passion.

Norm: How would you describe the relationship with your wife after the trip? Reading the book, I noticed there were some tense moments between you both during the adventure.

Brandon: I really admire Cheryl’s courage and willingness to take a chance. Traveling with daily hardship, uncertainty, and often life-threatening situations, will put any relationship to the test. Fortunately ours survived and this experience provided an even stronger foundation. If we could survive that, why, we could survive anything.

Norm: Did you keep a daily journal while you were travelling?

Brandon: Of course. It was sometimes hard to find the energy or time at the end of one of these 14-hours days to sit down and write. But I wanted this account of our journey to be real, raw, and authenticnot some romanticized notion of adventure travel. To capture that essence (while the blisters were still fresh) was vital. Time heals all wounds, as they say, and if you wait to write about it all later you lose much of the minutiae of the moment until it becomes merely a Disney version of your memorywithout the dancing hippos, of course.

Norm: After you returned home, did you write any magazine articles about your adventure or did you lecture anywhere about it?

Brandon: I wrote magazine and newspaper articles about the experience, and would have liked to lecture about the journey and situation in Tibet. Living in Hawaii, there’s always a logistical problem and cost of traveling outside the islands.

Now that the book is published, if there’s great enough interest throughout North America, I would welcome the chance to talk to groups about this life-changing experience and about the Tibet we grew to appreciate.

Norm: Why did you choose the title Yak Butter Blues for your book?

Brandon: Well, as a global citizen, I was so disturbed by seeing the destruction of this ancient culture; the dismantling of temples, the corruption of monastic life; the re-education of a population where the children are prevented from learning Tibetan in schools; the removal of Tibetan food and clothing from the stores, plus the mass settlement of Han Chinese into Tibet causing Tibetans to become a minority in their country.

It is reaching the point where yak butter tea, that nourishing food that has traditionally fed and sustained a people throughout the centuries will soon be all that remains of an enlightened culture, while all the world looks away. These are the “Yak Butter Blues.”

(Besides, I liked the kind of Kerouac-ian ring to it!)

Norm: Did you ever hear any news about your horse Sadhu you left behind?

Brandon: The Internet is an amazing tool. Although we wrote to his new owner, the fellow who ran the Kathmandu guesthouse, shortly after our return home, we never heard back from him. Just recently, I “Googled” the hostel and was able to reach his brother.

Sadly, Sadhu, our old friend, passed away a couple of years ago at a very ripe old age. He spent his last years in a luxury resort, but will always be remembered by us as the only Tibetan we could bring to freedom.

Norm: Have you kept in contact with anyone you may have met during your trip?

Brandon: Unfortunately not. We sent copies of some of the photos we took along the journey to families we’d met, as our way of thanking them. That’s all.

Norm: How long did it take you to write the book?

Brandon: The first draft of the book was written in a few months. After that, it was revised through several drafts. Then I added the most current news on Tibet I could find, sorted through photos, and incorporated some of the simple truths which were initially planted in the mountains of Tibet and blossomed along more recent pilgrimage treks.

Norm: How are you going to market the book?

Brandon: Ah, the ultimate question! I consider this, in many ways, an extention of the journey. Perhaps, in retrospect, it is just as difficult with over 100,000 books released each year.

We’re reaching out to supporters of a free Tibet, colleges and universities, libraries, adventure travelers, trekking and outdoor organizations, newspapers, international adventure magazines, Buddhist and dharma groups, Indians & Nepalese, and independent bookstores to help get the word out. Much of this has been started and we use the Internet a lot to let people know about our web site.

The national reviews so far have been excellent and I’m awaiting others from abroad. Yak Butter Blues is currently listed on Internet bookseller sites from Europe to North America to Japan and Australia/New Zealand.

I’m also writing and sending articles to related sites and creating links, especially to the vast, displaced Tibetan community, as it is their story as much as our own.

Since book promotion these days ultimately rests with the author, I’m participating in book signings and interviews to further develop interest. As I said, if I find there’s a great enough interest in presentations, I might be tempted to put together some sort of North American tour. Whatja think?

Finally, after all those small moments along the trail where we felt like we owed our survival to some mysterious force, we have learned to “have faith,” to trust that we were meant to have this journey and that I was meant to write this book.

I can only trust that once again we will be blessed and that our audience will find us along life’s trail.

Meanwhile, if readers would like a first-hand look at our journey, complete with a sample chapter, maps, photos, Tibetan music and Tibet/Trekking/Peace links, please drop into my WEB SITE. Then take a moment to sign our guest book, email me, tell your friends, or post a review at Amazon.com. Namaste!

Thanks Brandon and I wish you good luck in all of your future endeavours. _________________________________________________________________

Norm Goldman is editor of bookpleasures.com and sketchandtravel.com. Norm is also a regular contributor to many book reviewing sites and travel sites.

Norm and his artist wife, Lily are a unique couple in that they meld words with art focusing on romantic and wedding destinations. You can learn more about them from their site http://www.sketchandtravel.com.

Norm and Lily are always open to receive invitations to write and paint about romantic destinations in the New England states, New York state and Florida.

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Tibet, also called “Shangri-La” or “the roof of the world” has always been the mystery and the magnet for the West. For a long time it was the most closed territory on the Earth, but in 1984 it opened its doors to the foreigners. For visiting Tibet you need a special permit, but usually it makes no difficulties.

Tibet is one of the Chinese provinces now, but it’s historically connected with India and Nepal too. Tibet lies high in The Himalayas but it’s not a very cold and snowy place. In fact, it’s the land of sun – there it shines bight and almost uninterruptedly.

Geographically Tibet can be divided into 3 parts – East, North and South. The East is the land covered with forests; the North is the place of plains. Here the nomads graze their sheep and yaks. The South, with its ancient cities and temples is considered to be the cultural centre of Tibet.

It’s in Tibet where 4 great Asian rivers take their beginning – Gang, Ind, Sutledge and Brahmaputra.

When you plan you visit to Tibet you usually have two opportunities – to include in your tour Nepal or China. The trip usually last about 2 weeks. The most appropriate time for visiting Tibet is April-June and September-November. The weather is smooth then – about +15°C +20°C during the day and about zero at night.

If you start in Nepal, then be ready to travel several days till you reach Tibet and, remember that you will have to cross the Chinese-Nepal border.
Main Tibet cities Lhasa and Shigatse offer the most accessible routes and the significant part of the religious monuments and tourist attractions is situated there. The most important religious monuments include the Potala, the Jokhang Temple, Tashilunpo Monastery, and Kumbum.

The Potala palace was built in VII century, lies at 110 meters height above the city and consists of two palaces – the White and the Red.

Tibet is a Buddhist country, so the temples and monasteries mentioned above are Buddhist. The calm and tranquility condescend to everyone visiting this land. Many pilgrims come to Tibet with the hope to find the answers to the harassing questions.

The greatest natural wonder of Tibet is Everest Mountain – the highest peak on the Earth. Of course, it’s not included in the tourist routes, but if you dream of climbing it the special expeditions are organized.

Southwestern Tibet has become a popular destination for mountaineers. There are more than 40 snow peaks are opened to mountain climbing enthusiasts.
The tour to Tibet is an ideal choice for religious and mountain travelers, but as the way is rather hard, it is not recommended for the people with serious heath problems.

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Tibet is also known as the ‘Roof of the world’ as even the lower areas of Tibet are higher than mountain peaks in other regions of the world. Himalayas in Tibet is the source of some of the biggest snow fed rivers of the world. Yangtze, Indus, Ganges, Salween and Yellow river are some of the rivers which originate from Tibet Himalayas.

Himalayas in Tibet has got attractive landscape. It is home to the world’s highest glaciers which are found on the Northern slope of Himalayas and still remain unexplored by human being.

Climate of Tibet Himalayas

Himalayas in Tibet has the harsh climate. In summers it remains cool but in the winter season it becomes freezingly cold. The period of summers is very short and winters start from the month of October. The months of July and August are best to visit Tibet.

Flora and Fauna of Tibet Himalayas

Himalayas in Tibet are a habitat to various species of flora and fauna. The region boasts of around 790 species of vertebrates, 2000 species of plants, around 1000 herbal plants and 488 species of birds, 125 species of rare animal species and more than 2000 kinds of insects.

Bear, leopard, wild sheep, wild deer, Bengal tiger, wild yak, snub nosed monkey and wild ass are some of the species which are found in the forests of Tibet Himalayas.

Attractions in Himalayan region of Tibet

There are a number of tourist attraction destinations in Tibet. The plateau is a home to a number of beautifully decorated Buddhist monasteries, snow fed streams, lakes and hilly terrains.

Lhasa

Lhasa is the capital city of Tibet, located in the Central Southern part. It is also nicknamed as ‘Sunlight City’ and is situated at an elevation of 3,658 m above sea level. A number of Buddhist monuments can be seen in the capital city which was once the home of His Holiness Dalai Lama before exile. Lhasa is flocked by the nature lovers from different parts of the world to catch the glimpses of nature’s magnificent creation and to know about the Buddhist culture of the region.

Mount Kailash

Mount Kailash is the holy pilgrimage of Hindus and is known by the name of Khang Rinpoche. It is located in Tibet Himalayas in Western part of the country. Every year a large number of Hindu pilgrims from India visit Mount Kailash, which they consider as abode of Lord Shiva. With an altitude of 6.675 meters above sea level, Mount Kailash has remained a place of pilgrim from the past hundred of years. The beautiful Mansarovar lake is also located in Mount Kailash, which is also considered holy by both Buddhists and Hindus.

Shigatse or Xigatse

Shigatse is one of the major towns of Tibet Himalayas located in South-West at an altitude of 12,600 feet, where Yarlung Tsangpo river is joined by Nyangchu River. It is the main centre for distribution of animal husbandry and agriculture products. It is also famous because of the location of one of the age old beautiful Buddhist monasteries. One can purchase Tibetan handicrafts, corals, turquoise, daggers, Yak butter and Chinese porcelain from the local market.

Zhangmu

With an altitude of 7,000 feet above sea level, Zhangmu is also known as Khasa by local Tibetans. The hilly terrains of Zhangmu are heavily wooded by different species of high altitude trees and a number of gushing waterfalls make this Himalayan region in Tibet one of the most enchanting places to visit. It witnesses heavy snowfall in the months of winter.

For more information on Himalayas and Tibettan Culture visit: http://www.travel-himalayas.com/ and http://www.ladakh-kashmir.com

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The rolling hills of the high plateau and the stunning Himalayas exert an awesome draw to Tibet travelers and adventurers ever since. Most visitors’ trip to Tibet will start in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet Autonomous Region. Lhasa is home to an amazing UNESCO registered collection of spectacular palaces and temples which you should not be missed on a Tibet tour.

Potala Palace: Located in Lhasa, the Potala Palace is the symbol of Tibet. It was formerly the winter residence of the Dalai Lamas. This 13-storey edifice containing 999 rooms is absolutely awe-inspiring and you will be enchanted as you visit the rooms, halls and chapels of the palace.

Jokhang Temple: As the spiritual center of Tiber, the temple is the earliest wood-and-masonry structure still existing in Tibet. Thousands of pilgrims come here for worship everyday. Many of the pilgrims were crawling on the ground. Many others were spinning prayer wheels.

Drepung Monastery and Sera Monastery: They are two great Gelugpa monasteries in Lhasa. Drepung Monastery was once one of Tibet largest monasteries and monastic universities. Sera may not be as majestic as Drepung, but is more serene surrounded by many small temples. The ‘Buddhism Scriptures Debating’ in Sera is very famous.

Travelling to Tibet, visitors can witness the unique overland landscapes, the snow-covered mountains, plateau lakes, more and different monasteries and have the chance to get close to the real people of Tibet. There are many activities to offer you on a Tibet tour depending on if you are interested in nature, trekking, monasteries or Tibetan culture.

A typical Tibet trip starts in Lhasa, and includes short trips to Ganden Monastery and Nam Tso Lake, follows by a week trip to Mt Everest via Yamdrok Tso, Gyantse, Shigatse and Shegar, Lhaste. Visitors not only can see all the famous sites in Lhasa, but also can witness the other must sees of Tibet including the Yamdrotso Lake, the Palkhor Temple, the Tashilumpo Monastery, the Sakya Monastery and the Everest Base Camp along the way.

Yamdrotso Lake: One of the three holy lakes in Tibet and the world’s highest freshwater lake. For Tibet people, Yamdrotso Lake is the home of the “wrathful deities”. Here visitors can enjoy the intoxicating plateau natural scenery at the sacred, turquoise-blue lake. Far in the distance is the huge massif of Mt. Nojin Kangtsang (7191m).

Pelkor Chode Monastery in Gyantse: Built in the 15th century, this monastery is unique in Tibet for it has the characteristics of Tibetan, Han, and Nepal architectural styles. And what’s more, visitors can view the three sects of Buddhism-Sakyapa, Kadampa, and Gelugpa existing in harmony under one roof.

Tashilumpo Monastery: Located on the slops of Mt.Tara, southwest of Shigatse, the Tashiilumpo Monastery is one of the six big monasteries in Tibet. Besides the grand palace and gigantic statues, the Tashihunpo also treasures characteristic wall paintings. These are priceless and rare historical relics for researching the history and society of Tibet.

Sakya Monastery: Built in 1073, the Sakya Monastery has long been renowned for its large collection of Buddhist scripture, evaluable porcelain and vivid wall paintings dating back nearly one thousand years.

Base Camp of Mt Everest: The Base Camp is a small flat piece of land in front of the north face of Mt Everest with an altitude of 5200m. Recently more and more mountaineers start off from the Base Camp trying to conquer the world highest peak while travelers trek to the foot of the peak to enjoy its beauty through their own eyes.

Taking a Tibet vacation is surely different from most in the world. There are so many unique attractions, too numerous to mention. Many people might experience difficulties with the high altitude here. But when you witness the magnificent monasteries, pious pilgrims, snow-capped peaks and overwhelming ethnic culture, which all are located in the stunning landscape of the Himalayas, all the hardship you bear along the way make sense.

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According to Tibetan people, summer is the golden season to travel in a year. Recently, it is getting more and more overseas tourists to go to Tibet. They are not only craving for gorgeous sights and trek, but also searching for diverse culture tours. Tibet’s culture is visually stunning as its landscape, its Buddhist heritage, and its tradition and history rich. It is better to know the culture of Tibet in the face of the current pace of change.

You can see foreign tourists everywhere in Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple and the Tashihungpo Monastery of Rikaze, etc. An American tourist Cathy, excited talking about her 5-day trip to Tibet, she said:” Tibet is the most mysterious place deep down in my heart as always. The natural environment and culture are unique on the planet. I was looking forward to visiting Tibet, but I was a bit worried about the security state in Tibet before. However, you won’t know until you are there. I went search engine and found out visit tibet travel and tours, after further enquiries they made a route out based on my interests. Thanks to them, a decent Tibet tour guide gives me amazing experiences.”

The assistant director of the Tibet Tourism Bureau Wei Min quoted: “Tourism of Tibet has once strongly impaired by the March 14th riots in Lhasa, but from the related statistics both the tourist arrivals and revenue between January and May in 2009 are higher than that in the same period of 2008. We are confident that Tibet’s tourism market is recovering from slack seasons last year.” “As far as I know, China has invested great amounts of money in ecological preservation for sustainable development, by the help of that we’ll see tourists pouring this year.” The general manager of VisitTibet.com said.

To learn much more about Tibet tour solutions, please visit http://www.visittibet.com where you can get more free information on specialized tours in Tibet, Nepal and Himalayas.

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